P1930 — Fuel Additive Pump Low Voltage
P1930 — Fuel Additive Pump Low Voltage. P1930 normally affects fuel additive dosing rather than the main fuel pump, so short-distance driving may be reasonable if the engine otherwise runs normally.
For Ford vehicles
fuel additive pump control circuit – supply voltage too low
vehicle
Is it safe to drive?
Service the additive pump circuit promptly P1930 normally affects fuel additive dosing rather than the main fuel pump, so short-distance driving may be reasonable if the engine otherwise runs normally. Avoid extended driving if the additive warning remains, the pump fails to operate, or battery and charging-system faults are also present.
Typical symptoms
- Check engine light or warning display showing P1930
- Fuel additive pump does not activate when commanded
- Low-additive, no-additive, or incorrect-additive warning message
- Additive pump operates intermittently or audibly runs while the engine is off
- Erratic fuel additive concentration or related drivability warning on equipped vehicles
Common causes
- Corroded or loose additive pump connector causing high circuit resistance
- Damaged supply wiring or an inadequate ground connection at the additive pump
- Blown fuse or faulty relay in the fuel additive pump power circuit
- Low system voltage from the battery or charging system
- Internal additive pump failure or excessive pump current causing a voltage drop
- Faulty fuel additive control module driver or control-module ground
How to diagnose with an OBD scanner
- Read P1930 with an OBD scanner Connect an OBD scanner, ELM327 adapter, or AIScanAuto device and review stored and pending codes, freeze-frame data, and the additive pump command status. Record the data before clearing any codes.
- Inspect the pump and connectors Locate the fuel additive pump and examine its electrical connector, wiring harness, ground points, and nearby fuses or relays for corrosion, damage, looseness, or overheating.
- Measure supply voltage under load Using the vehicle wiring diagram, back-probe the additive pump connector while the pump is commanded on. Compare the measured voltage with the manufacturer specification and check for excessive voltage drop.
- Check power and ground circuits Verify battery and charging-system output, confirm the applicable fuse and relay operation, and perform load tests on the pump supply and ground. Repair any corroded terminals or high-resistance wiring before replacing the pump.
- Test the additive pump If the supply voltage and grounds are acceptable, test the additive pump for correct resistance and current draw against service specifications. An internal pump fault can cause P1930 by pulling the control-circuit voltage too low.
- Repair and verification scan Repair the defective wiring, connection, fuse, relay, pump, or control circuit, then command the additive pump and verify its operation with the scanner. Confirm that P1930 does not return and that the additive warning clears.
Approximate repair cost
A rough independent-shop estimate is USD $150–$900 for diagnosis and repair, depending on whether the fault is wiring, a connector, a fuse or relay, or the additive pump itself. These figures are estimates only and vary by region, vehicle access, labor rates, and parts availability.
Common questions
Does P1930 mean the main fuel pump has failed?
No. P1930 specifically identifies low supply voltage in the fuel additive pump control circuit and does not by itself confirm a main fuel-pump failure.
Can I drive with a P1930 code stored?
Usually, yes for limited driving if the engine and charging system operate normally, but the additive pump may not deliver the required amount. Repair P1930 promptly if warnings remain.
What should be checked first when diagnosing P1930?
Start with the additive pump connector, related fuse or relay, and supply and ground wiring. Corrosion and high-resistance connections are common causes of low measured voltage.
Why can P1930 appear even if the additive pump seems to run?
The pump may operate with an intermittent connection or voltage drop. Freeze-frame data and live voltage measurements are more reliable than judging pump operation by sound alone.
P1930 — ---
When your check engine light comes on and a scan tool reveals P1930, the engine control module has identified a problem within one of its sensor or actuator circuits. In simple terms, the PCM is receiving a signal that falls outside the expected range — either no signal at all, a constant short, or an erratic reading — from a component it monitors continuously during operation. Because the exact part involved can differ between makes and models, P1930 is considered a generic OBD-II code that describes a fault type rather than pinpointing a single failing component.
To trigger P1930, the PCM compares live sensor or actuator data against factory-defined thresholds, typically running this check across multiple drive cycles before confirming a genuine failure and illuminating the light. The moment the fault occurs, the module captures a freeze frame — a snapshot recording engine speed, load, coolant temperature, and vehicle speed. That snapshot is one of the most valuable diagnostic starting points, because it tells you exactly what conditions were present when the module first noticed the problem.
The symptoms you'll experience with P1930 depend on which specific circuit is affected, but there are several patterns that show up across most vehicles.
Symptoms of P1930
- A illuminated check engine light is almost always present once the fault is confirmed.
- Depending on the affected component, the vehicle may enter limp mode — a protective state that reduces power and locks out certain gears or functions.
- Some drivers notice a measurable increase in fuel consumption when the circuit is functioning intermittently.
- The system associated with the faulty sensor or actuator may operate erratically or fail entirely — for example, an affected emissions sensor could cause rough idling, or a transmission actuator fault could produce delayed or harsh shifting.
- Acceleration may feel sluggish, particularly under load.
- In rare cases, the vehicle may stall or have trouble restarting if the failed circuit affects a critical engine management function.
The most common user-reported symptom alongside P1930 is the check engine light itself combined with a noticeable change in drivability — either reduced power or erratic behavior from the associated system.
What causes P1930?
The root causes of P1930 fall into five main categories, listed from most to least frequently encountered:
- Faulty sensor or actuator — The most common trigger. A worn, contaminated, or internally failed component produces an out-of-range signal that the PCM flags immediately.
- Wiring or connector problem — Broken insulation, corroded terminals, or a loose plug can interrupt the signal path just as effectively as a failed component. This is especially common in older vehicles or those exposed to moisture or road salt.
- Blown fuse — A fused circuit that powers the sensor or actuator will set P1930 the moment that fuse opens. Always check the fuse panel before assuming the component itself is bad.
- Poor ground connection — Sensors and actuators rely on a clean ground reference. Corrosion or a loosened ground strap at the engine or chassis can inject noise or drop the signal entirely.
- Control module driver fault — In a smaller number of cases, the PCM's internal output stage that drives the circuit has failed, sending the wrong voltage or no voltage at all to the sensor or actuator.
How to diagnose P1930
A methodical approach prevents unnecessary part replacements and keeps your repair bill reasonable.
- Retrieve the code and freeze frame — Connect your OBD2 scanner, confirm that P1930 is the active or stored code, and record the freeze frame data. Note the RPM, load, coolant temperature, and vehicle speed recorded at the moment of failure.
- Check for related codes and TSBs — Pull all stored codes, not just P1930. A related code (such as a sensor reference voltage issue or a ground circuit code) often points directly to the root cause. Check for manufacturer technical service bulletins for your specific make, model, and model year — many generic P0xxx codes have documented factory fixes or known issues.
- Inspect the wiring and connectors — Visually examine the harness and all connectors in the circuit for chafed wires, broken insulation, moisture intrusion, bent pins, or corrosion. Pay close attention to areas near heat sources, moving parts, or where the harness passes through the firewall.
- Test reference voltage, ground, and signal continuity — At the component connector, verify that the PCM is supplying the correct reference voltage and that the ground path is solid. Use a multimeter to check for continuity in the signal circuit, and compare your readings to the manufacturer's specifications.
- Perform a wiggle test — With the scanner displaying live data from the affected sensor or actuator, gently flex the wiring harness. Any dropouts, spikes, or sudden value changes indicate an intermittent open or short within the wiring.
- Clear the code and complete a drive cycle — After confirming no obvious wiring damage, clear P1930 and drive the vehicle under the exact conditions captured in the freeze frame. If the code returns, the fault is confirmed and you can proceed to component-level testing or replacement.
Repair options and costs
Begin with the least expensive possibilities before committing to major repairs. P1930 repair scenarios typically fall into one of three categories:
- Wiring or connector repair — Fixing broken wires, replacing damaged connectors, or sealing corroded terminals. Typical parts and labor at an independent shop: $80–$250.
- Control module repair or replacement — If the PCM's internal driver has failed, the module may need to be repaired by a specialist or replaced and reprogrammed. Typical parts and labor: $300–$1,000.
- Sensor or actuator replacement — The faulty component itself is swapped out. Replacement part cost plus labor varies by location and vehicle, but most shops charge: $150–$500.
Total repair cost for P1930 usually falls between $80 and $1,000, depending entirely on which part of the circuit is at fault. An accurate diagnosis before purchasing parts is the single most effective way to keep your total bill at the lower end of that range — the control module replacement scenario, while the most expensive option, is rarely the first thing to check.
Can you drive with P1930?
In most cases, a vehicle equipped with P1930 remains drivable, though you may notice reduced performance or limited functionality from the affected system. The PCM typically protects the drivetrain by activating limp mode, which limits speed and prevents further damage. However, if the fault causes stalling, a no-start condition, or affects brake-assist or power-steering circuits, treat the situation as urgent and have the vehicle diagnosed as soon as possible. Use your judgment based on how the car is driving — when in doubt, get it to a shop rather than risk being stranded.
Related OBD2 codes
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- P1901: Transmission Transfer Case Disengaged Solenoid Short to Ground
- P1902: 4X4 Initialization Failure
- P1903: Transmission 4WD Mode Select Return Input Circuit Failure
- P1904: Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate Ground Return Open Circuit
- P1905: OSS Circuit Intermittent Malfunction